A good quality slate should last a lifetime. When using stone of any kind outdoors, especially slate, it is important it have a low absorption rate, which means that the pores found on the surface of the stone will not soak up moisture. When water gets into these pores, it can freeze, which causes it to expand and then shatter the stone. Slate is generally a good stone to use outdoors depending on where you live because it has a very low absorption rate.
However, the absorption rate will vary slightly between different types of slate, so be sure to research the material you select. Most importantly, consider your geographic location before deciding on using slate outdoors. If you live in cold or rainy climates, the freeze-thaw cycle will cause the water to expand in your stone and crack and shatter the slate.
Southern California is an ideal climate for using slate outdoors. Smaller stores must often rely on selling cheaper products to compete. Especially with slate, you usually get what you pay for. Vermont slate is usually smoother and denser and tends to be one color with low water absorption.
Indian and Chinese slates come in many variegated colors and are usually dense but soft and tend toward higher water absorption rates. Inspect the sides of the stone looking for cracks, voids or loose layers. If the slate shows these conditions, it may have trouble maintaining its integrity while suffering from weathering over the course of several years. You will need a trowel with quarter-inch 0. Remove all the tiles and check for surface damage before you get started.
Reorder tile before you start your project, so that you can ensure you have enough tile to complete the flooring. Sort your tile according to color variation and thickness. Some tiles are thicker than others and surrounding tiles will need to be built up with adhesive to ensure a flat surface. Part 3. Sketch a layout for the color scheme of the slate. Since slate tiles can vary slightly in size, it is important to do a dry run with your tiles so you know where to adjust the surface level and position of your tiles.
Measure lines through the width and length of the room. When the lines cross they will create a degree angle on which you can check for even spacing. Lay out your tile to figure out the best use of color. Use tile spacers during the dry run to ensure you have even spacing. Decide if you will need to cut tile at the edges of the room.
If you do, you will want to reposition your layout, so that cut tiles of even width can be laid at either end. This will result in a symmetrical floor.
Cut tiles to fit around the edges of the room. Measure the tile to account for a one-eighth-inch 0. You can cut slate tile with a diamond-blade wet saw, grinder or hacksaw with an abrasive blade. Mark tiles that require extra thinset on the back to create an even surface. Place a line of chalk on them during your dry run, so that you can make this important change when you lay your mortar. Part 4. Start with the section farthest from the door.
Choose the mortar you want to use. You can use slate tile adhesive or thinset Portland cement mortar mixed with acrylic. Mix it well and set it nearby. Consider purchasing a mixing attachment to use with your power drill. It will mix the thinset more thoroughly than hand mixing. Ready a bucket of water and a sponge, so that you can remove excess mortar from the tiles when necessary. Apply your thinset or adhesive to a two by three foot 0. Place a generous amount of mortar down within a section of your chalk line.
Smooth it out with the smooth edge of the trowel until it covers the area. Run the grooved edge of the towel in a single direction across the three-foot 0. Always groove the thinset in the same direction. Place the first tile down on the intersection of your chalk lines. You will move toward the wall. Setting spacers between the tiles at either end of the tile.
Remember to build up thinner tiles with thicker coatings of mortar. Press down on the tiles with your hand to ensure it is properly adhered. Use your damp sponge to remove thinset that drops onto the tile before it dries.
Scrape extra mortar from the edges with a margin trowel. Set nine tiles at a time and then move on to a new section. Remove the layout, mortar the area and set the tile. Take your time to create an evenly spaced, level floor. Leave the finished slate to set for 24 hours before you grout. Part 5. Remove the spacers tile-by-tile just before you grout your tiles. Just drop a billiard ball on the table and listen to that solid sound! This same solid surface can be used as a kitchen countertop, a fireplace hearth, a fireplace surround, stair treads, bar top, even a decorative side table top.
Slate is available in different thicknesses and shapes. I happen to prefer the random ashlar pattern. The pattern is anything but random. However, when you assemble the six different shapes, it sure looks random. I happen to walk across this flooring everyday in my own entrance hall. It's very durable and attractive. Slate is commonly available in square pieces or irregular shards that require hand trimming on the job site. Slate installed in this manner resembles traditional flagstone work.
If done by a professional, it is extremely attractive. Although slate is very stain resistant, some liquids and foods can stain slate. In the past, homeowners were told to wax slate. I have seen this done time and time again.
Waxing slate is a mistake. It detracts from the slate's natural beauty, makes the slate slippery, and can discolor the slate the slate doesn't turn color, just the wax turns yellow! Within the past 15 - 20 years, new synthetic sealers have been developed which seal slate but do little or nothing to alter its appearance.
These sealers often contain acrylic plastic compounds which are clear and non-yellowing. Some of the best products on the market impart a "wet" look to the slate which really brings out the true color of each individual piece. These are the sealers to purchase. Beware of slate care products that do not penetrate the slate. Some of these sealers form a surface film on the slate which can yellow, scuff, and reduce the natural slip resistance of the slate.
You must do your homework and ask these questions or look for the answers in the sealer literature. Don't necessarily trust a salesperson! If you have an existing slate floor that has multiple coats of wax, don't despair! We can bring it back from the edge of oblivion.
The first thing to do is remove the old wax with a standard wax remover. Wax removers are very alkaline and simply soften the wax. You normally mop these products on, let them sit for a few minutes, and then remove with another mopping. Be careful not to get this stripper on any painted woodwork, stained baseboard or trim, adjacent carpeting, hardwood, etc.
It is a vicious product! I recommend that you work in small areas and do it by hand. It may take several applications to remove all of the wax from the grout joints. Be careful not to flood the floor with water or stripper. Water may work its way beneath the slate and swell the wood subfloor that is, if you have a wood subfloor.
Only use enough stripper or rinse water to sufficiently cover the area you are working on. After you have removed the wax, you should clean the slate and the grout with a neutral pH cleaner. This is very important. Many of the slate sealer companies also sell these special cleaners. Once the floor is clean, it should dry for several days before sealing.
The sealers work best when they can penetrate into the slate. Absolutely take the time to read the instructions on all the products you use. I find this to be the biggest reason for poor results on projects. Homeowners and contractors alike seem to resist reading instructions thoroughly. If you follow the instructions found on a quality product, you will be rewarded with a gorgeous final product. Take the extra 10 minutes and read them.
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