Gear Assy-1st, Main Shaft. MT, 2WD. MT, KC. Gear Assy-2nd, Main Shaft. Gear Assy-3rd, Main Shaft. Gear Assy-Main Drive. Gear Assy-Overdrive.
Gear-Drive, Speedometer. Gear-Overdrive, Counter Shaft. Gear-Reverse Idler. Gear-Reverse, Counter. Gear-Reverse, Main Shaft.
Gear-Sub, Counter Drive Gear. Gear-Sub, Reverse Idler Gear. Holder-C Ring. Hub-Synchronizer REV. These operations should be done on a level surface. Also, do not allow it to strike adjacent parts, especially the brake tubes and master cylinder.
Before starting repairs which do not require battery power: Turn off ignition switch. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. To prevent serious burns: Avoid contact with hot metal parts.
Do not remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot. Before servicing the vehicle: Protect fenders, upholstery and carpeting with appropriate covers. Take caution that keys, buckles or buttons do not scratch paint. Clean all disassembled parts in the designated liquid or solvent prior to inspection or assembly.
Static electricity may damage internal electronic components. Continued refueling may cause fuel overflow resulting in fuel spray and possibly a fire. Before connecting or disconnecting any harness connector for the multiport fuel injection system or ECM: Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Disconnect negative battery terminal. Otherwise, there may be damage to ECM. Before disconnecting pressurized fuel line from fuel pump to injectors, be sure to release fuel pressure.
Be careful not to jar components such as ECM and mass air flow sensor. If a large amount of unburned fuel flows into the catalyst, the catalyst temperature will be excessively high. Leaded gasoline will seriously damage the three way catalyst.
Do not place the vehicle on flammable material. Keep flammable material off the exhaust pipe and the three way catalyst. To reinstall the rubber hose securely, make sure of hose insertion length and clamp orientation.
If tube is equipped with hose stopper, insert rubber hose into tube until it butts up against hose stopper. If old rubber hose is re-used, install hose clamp in its original position at the indentation where the old clamp was.
If there is a trace of tube bulging left on the old rubber hose, align rubber hose at that position. Discard old clamps; replace with new ones. After installing leaf spring clamps, apply force to them in the direction of the arrow, tightening rubber hose equally all around. Prolonged and repeated contact with used engine oil may cause skin cancer. Try to avoid direct skin contact with used oil. If skin contact is made, wash thoroughly with soap or hand cleaner as soon as possible.
Burning used engine oil in small space heaters or boilers can be recommended only for units of approved design. The heating system must meet the requirements of HM Inspectorate of Pollution for small burners of less than 0. Dispose of used oil and used oil filters through authorized waste disposal contractors to licensed waste disposal sites, or to the waste oil reclamation trade.
If in doubt, contact the local authority for advice on disposal facilities. It is illegal to pour used oil onto the ground, down sewers or drains, or into water courses. The regulations concerning the pollution vary from country to country. Avoid prolonged and repeated contact with oils, particularly used engine oils. Wear protective clothing, including impervious gloves where practicable.
Do not put oily rags in pockets. Avoid contaminating clothes, particularly underpants, with oil. Heavily soiled clothing and oil-impregnated footwear should not be worn. Overalls must be cleaned regularly. First Aid treatment should be obtained immediately for open cuts and wounds. Use barrier creams, applying them before each work period, to help the removal of oil from the skin. Wash with soap and water to ensure all oil is removed skin cleansers and nail brushes will help.
Preparations containing lanolin replace the natural skin oils which have been removed. Do not use gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel, gas oil, thinners or solvents for cleaning skin. If skin disorders develop, obtain medical advice without delay. Where practicable, degrease components prior to handling. Where there is a risk of eye contact, eye protection should be worn, for example, chemical goggles or face shields, in addition, an eye wash facility should be provided.
Under no circumstances should leaded gasoline be used. It will damage the three way catalyst and increase dangerous emissions from the vehicle exhaust. Using a fuel other than that specified could adversely affect the emission control devices and systems, and could also affect the warranty coverage validity. Use an approved refrigerant recovery unit any time the air conditioning system must be discharged.
The illustrations should be used in reference to service matters only. Assembly, inspection and adjustment procedures for the complicated units such as the automatic transaxle or transmission, etc. Should be lubricated with grease. Unless otherwise indicated, use recommended multi-purpose grease. Continuity exists between terminals 1 and 3 when the switch is in the B position. A coordinate grid is included for complex harnesses to aid in locating connectors.
For code meaning, refer to wire color codes, Number 14 of this chart. The open square shows current flow in, and the shaded square shows current flow out. Most of connector symbols in wiring diagrams are shown from the terminal side. Male and female terminals Connector guides for male terminals are shown in black and female terminals in white in wiring diagrams.
The continuity of multiple switch is described in two ways as shown below. The Reference Area of the wiring diagram contains references to additional electrical reference pages at the end of the manual. If connector numbers and titles are shown in the Reference Area of the wiring diagram, these connectors symbols are not shown in the Connector Area.
SMJ connector numbers are shown in the Reference Area of the wiring diagram. SMJ terminal arrangement can be found on the electrical reference pages at the end of the manual. Electrical units Electrical unit connector symbols are shown in the Connector Area of the wiring diagram.
However, when there is not enough space to show the connector terminal arrangement in the Connector Area of the wiring diagram, the electrical unit connector number is shown in the Reference Area of the wiring diagram. Most of the electrical unit connectors on this page are shown from the harness side forth connector.
Use the connector and terminal pin kit listed below when replacing connectors or terminals. Tool number Kent-Moore No. Tool name. Connector damage and an intermittent connection can result from improperly probing of the connector during circuit checks.
The probe of a digital multimeter DMM may not correctly fit the connector cavity. Damage to the seal between wire and connector may result. Do not insert any object other than the same type male terminal into female terminal. Some connectors do not have a notch above each terminal. To probe each terminal, remove the connector retainer to make contact space for probing.
Do not bend terminal. An enlarged contact spring of a terminal may create intermittent signals in the circuit. If the intermittent open circuit occurs, follow the procedure below to inspect for open wires and enlarged contact spring of female terminal. Assemble a male terminal and approx. Use a male terminal which matches the female terminal. Disconnect the suspected faulty connector and hold it terminal side up. While holding the wire of the male terminal, try to insert the male terminal into the female terminal.
Do not force the male terminal into the female terminal with your hands. If the male terminal can be easily inserted into the female terminal, replace the female terminal. If water enters the connector, it can short interior circuits.
This may lead to intermittent problems. Check the following items to maintain the original waterproof characteristics. Most waterproof connectors are provided with a rubber seal between the male and female connectors. If the seal is missing, the waterproof performance may not meet specifications.
The rubber seal may come off when connectors are disconnected. Whenever connectors are reconnected, make sure the rubber seal is properly installed on either side of male or female connector. The wire seal must be installed on the wire insertion area of a waterproof connector.
Be sure that the seal is installed properly. Check for unlocked terminals by pulling wire at the end of connector. An unlocked terminal may create intermittent signals in the circuit. The following are key pieces of information required to make a good analysis: WHAT.
Service History and if any Aftermarket Accessories have been installed. Operate the system, road test if necessary. Verify the parameter of the incident. Identify where to begin diagnosis based upon your knowledge of the system operation and the customer comments. Inspect the system for mechanical binding, loose connectors or wiring damage. Determine which circuits and components are involved and diagnose using the Power Supply Routing and Harness Layouts.
Operate the system in all modes. Verify the system works properly under all conditions. Make sure you have not inadvertently created a new incident during your diagnosis or repair steps. Sometimes the symptom is not present when the vehicle is brought in for service. If possible, re-create the conditions present at the time of the incident.
Doing so may help avoid a No Trouble Found Diagnosis. It is important for simulating the conditions of the problem. In such a case, you will want to check for a vibration related condition. Refer to the illustration below. Connectors and Harness Determine which connectors and wiring harness would affect the electrical system you are inspecting. Gently shake each connector and harness while monitoring the system for the incident you are trying to duplicate. This test may indicate a loose or poor electrical connection.
Hint Connectors can be exposed to moisture. It is possible to get a thin film of corrosion on the connector terminals. A visual inspection may not reveal this without disconnecting the connector.
If the problem occurs intermittently, perhaps the problem is caused by corrosion. It is a good idea to disconnect, inspect and clean the terminals on related connectors in the system. Sensors and Relays Gently apply a slight vibration to sensors and relays in the system you are inspecting. This test may indicate a loose or poorly mounted sensor or relay. Engine Compartment There are several reasons a vehicle or engine vibration could cause an electrical complaint.
To inspect components under the hood, start by verifying the integrity of ground connections. First check that the system is properly grounded. Then check for loose connection by gently shaking the wiring or components as previously explained. Using the wiring diagrams inspect the wiring for continuity.
Comprehensive style mixed with all around versatility makes it an outstanding pickup truck! Top features include front fog lights, a leather steering wheel, air conditioning, and a split Oh yeah!!! New In Stock. Isn't it time for a Nissan?!!! Other features include: hp horsepower, 2. Question: I have a Dodge with 3-speed manual gearbox floor shift. I can change up through the gears, but when I want to change down from 3rd top to second, I cannot get it out of top gear.
The lever is stuck. Clutch works ok. Do you have any advice? Answer: Make sure the shift linkage is not stuck, worn or damage. Otherwise, an internal mechanical problem seems to be the issue. Question: I have a Chevy Sonic with a manual transmission. It makes a knocking noise in all 5 gears that gets faster with speed. The noise disappears when the clutch is pressed, or when in neutral. What would cause this?
Answer: This kind of rhythmic, knocking sound usually happens in a component with a chipped or broken teeth.
This may be a gear, input or intermediate shaft gears or similar part. But you need a good diagnostic, because something like this requires disassembly if a shop suspects this is what's going on. Question: I have a Toyota Corolla that is making a whining noise in all gears and sometimes a clanking sound. Does this sound like it could be a problem with the clutch? Answer: Seems like a worn clutch or flywheel; possibly a problem with the pilot bushing being worn as well.
Question: What would cause my Trans Am not to go into first with the car on or off? All other gears work. Answer: The problem could be a detent plunger worn or broken spring or a loose plug not able to hold the detent pin or spring.
This is just an idea. You need a better diagnostic before disassembling. Question: So when I let off of the gas of my car but still in gear at highway speeds 50 mph plus there's a thumping and bumping noise. I can feel it very slightly! My question is, what would cause this? I have no other issues with shifting. I just noticed it happening today. Answer: Usually, this type of noise comes from a worn universal joint; but other related issues that may cause noises during deceleration or even acceleration - axle bearings, or a worn transmission extension housing bushing.
Question: I heard a little bang when in gear, then I was out of gear, and although the clutch was able to put the tranny into each gear, the transmission would keep acting as if I was in neutral.
Is this a clutch or transmission output shaft problem? Question: I have a VW T25 diesel 4 speed. It started grinding into 3rd and 4th recently and can be hard to get into first.
And pops out of 2nd. So not a good start was fine before an engine replacement. I was driving on a trip, and it dropped from 4th to 2nd without touching the stick.
Now I've only got reverse, 1st, and 3rd, and I'm pretty sure 2nd is 4th! Grinding when the clutch is engaged too. Any ideas? I've restored the linkage but no good. Answer: It seems like an internal problem, probably a damaged gear. You may need to bring the car to a transmission shop for a proper diagnosis. Question: Ford Ranger 5 speed manual.
While running in neutral, as I let out on the clutch, it starts making a rattling noise. When I push the clutch in, it stops. Also it will go in all gears fine but when I start to take off, it will try to move but then makes a loud popping sound and won't move.
Previous to this it had started making a whining sound when driving. What could be wrong? Answer: This could be a problem of worn or bad countershaft bearings. Make sure you got enough oil. The rubber shift cover plugs tend to shrink and leak, usually while the vehicle is moving. This could affect bearings and gears. Question: I have a 98 Dodge Ram 4x4 nv Trans grinds into 2nd and 3rd. If I pause after pressing in the clutch, it doesn't grind. Pedal seems a bit harder to press than normal.
I changed the fluid. It was not too dark but magnet had a fair amount of metal on it, looked silver for the most part. Should I do a clutch before condemning synchros? Answer: It does sound like a syncro issue, but it could be a linkage adjustment problem or slave cylinder issue as well. Question: I have a 06 Scion. In first and second gear only you can literally feel the entire gear shift pull forward when accelerating.
In second gear, it pulls so hard it drops to gear shift back into neutral. If I try to hold the gear shift in second, it grinds. Third, fourth and fifth are all fine. Do I need a new transmission? Answer: There could be a number of things. Gearshift, shift fork or rail problems, clutch shaft or synchronizer assembly damage. Question: Sometimes when I shift my f, it feels like it goes in gear, but the check engine light comes on, and there is no throttle response or grinding when I let out the clutch.
I try to go into different gears, and this usually works. It was doing it a little bit, and I changed the clutch.
It worked great for a moment, then started doing the shift thing again and feels like it is getting worse. There is new fluid in the transmission and filled until it came out the side. Could it be a bad slave cylinder? Answer: It's hard to say without a diagnostic, but check the shift linkage for adjustment. Before you do that, though, make sure to download the trouble codes from the computer memory. They can point you in the right direction if there is any store in there.
Question: I have a Nissan X-Trail , manual 4x4. When reversing on a steep uphill road the gear pops out! What could the problem be? Answer: There could be a problem with the synchro, but you'll need a good diagnostic from a shop.
Question: My Mitsubishi Lancer pops out of first gear half the time and grinds when downshifting to 2nd, what could be the problem? Answer: Probably the gearshift mechanism is faulty. Usually, this is caused by worn or damaged detent plugs or springs failing to keep the gear locked in place.
Other problems that can cause the gear to slip: faulty shift forks or rail; a worn clutch shaft or roller bearing; worn pilot bushing; bad synchronizer assembly. Question: My Camaro is a V6 manual transmission but when the engine is running it will not shift into first. But, if started in first the car creeps forward; I've been using second for now.
What could the issue be? Answer: This could be several things, cable in need of adjustment, leaking cylinder hydraulic models , a linkage problem.
What is the problem? The 2nd and 5 gear are good. Answer: There could be varied reasons for a gear to jump out. Most common: misadjusted shift linkage; shift rail detent worn or spring ; worn synchronizer clutch sleeve teeth; worn gear teeth.
Question: I have a Saturn SC1 5sp. I have trouble engaging the first and second gears, especially when the transmission is cold.
What could be causing this? Answer: Usually, incorrect grade gear oil would cause this kind of problem. But there could also be an issue with the gear linkage being out of adjustment. Question: I have a Nissan Xterra manual transmission, and the clutch is not coming up as it's supposed to do.
It is staying down and I have to use my feet to put it in the right position to change gears. What can be happening? Answer: Check first the linkage, if it looks OK, check for leaks at the master and slave cylinder.
Otherwise, there could be something wrong with the release assembly internally. I thought the battery was dead. Jumped it and started the engine. In first gear, the car engine bumped over; the car leaped forward and then cut off. I tried 3 times. Put the car in neutral, jumped it, and it started. But then it would not shift out of neutral. It had a strong smell of burning rubber odor.
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